When I think back to my days in Southeast Asia, a few moments stand out. Things like surfing the iconic Uluwatu in Indonesia and circumnavigating the Palawan Islands by boat in the Philippines come to mind. But by far one of the most exceptional experiences I’ve had in these parts of the world would be spending a night on a traditional junk in Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay.
Sure, the fact that I was lucky enough to board one of the most luxurious lines on the bay might have made this experience that much more memorable. Regardless, I guarantee that spending time on any boat in this incredible national park is a must-do for any fan of impressive views, delicious food, and unique cultures. What’s not to love?
Pro Tip: Visit during the dry season. If you’re concerned about being stuck in a monsoon shower and not being able to see the sun all trip, the best time to visit is between September to November or March through May. This way, you’ll be able to get as much sightseeing in as you’d like.
What is a Junk?
So, what is a junk? One thing I can say for sure is that there is nothing junk about a junk. The word directly translates to ‘ship ‘or ‘large vessel’ in Chinese or Malay and is a type of boat that was initially used between 220 BCE and 200 CE during the Han Dynasty. Still around today, it’s no surprise that this humble ship is one of the most successfully designed vessels in modern history.
Cruising the waters of Ha Long Bay for centuries, junks are more than just a vessel to get from A to B; they’re pieces of floating heritage.
Getting to Ha Long Bay
I started my Vietnamese adventure in Hanoi, with Ha Long Bay as the second stop on a jam-packed itinerary. The drive from Hanoi to Ha Long took about three to four hours and was 100 miles in distance. We left after a leisurely (yet early) breakfast and arrived at the Tuan Chau New Marina around midday.
I was lucky enough to ride in style this trip, so I enjoyed a private transfer in a comfortable, air-conditioned minibus. On many of the more luxurious lines, such as the Orchid Classic Cruise, the Peony Cruise, or the Heritage Line Cruise (which is the one I went on), private transport will likely be included in your rate or available for an additional cost.
If this is unrealistic for a budget trip, there are plenty of other ways to get to Ha Long Bay from Hanoi. There are over a hundred bus companies that run the route hundreds of times each day for around 150 thousand VND (around $6). Most buses leave from the My Dinh Bus Station, which is a little distance from the Hanoi city center.
A spot on an air-conditioned shuttle bus costs between 350 and 500 thousand VND in each direction ($14 to $20) and can pick you up directly from your accommodation. I would rate this as totally worth it for the time saved and the comfort of the journey.
Among others, some of the main shuttle bus companies include Van Don Xanh, VIP Anh Huy, and Trung Tranh Limousine.
An Itinerary of Events
Our planned trip was only one night, which meant we had to fit in as many activities and points of interest into a relatively short period of time. Within the 24 hours or so on the boat, I was able to visit a local floating fishing village, hike to the highest point of a limestone monolithic island, swim in the bay, join a cooking class on board, walk through the Sung Sot Grotto, watch morning tai chi on the top deck, and eat four incredible meals in the dining room.
Depending on how long you have to spend on the boat, the trip you join, and your interests, you could join a sunset kayaking trip, do yoga on the boat deck, and explore even more of these incredible islands.
Lunch on Arrival
When we arrived at the port, we were escorted into a comfortable waiting room with our boat docked out front. We were booked on the beautiful Jasmine Junk, which is one of the five best boats in the bay (I told you I was lucky with this trip). It was fitted floor to ceiling in 1930s Indochine style, with tons of warm wooden interiors, a restaurant, a lounge, and around 20 private cabins.
Shortly after boarding the boat, the junk set sail for the bay. While we cruised through the pristine milky waters, we were treated to a delicious lunch on board. Crystal spring rolls, prawns, noodles, and other Vietnamese specials scattered the buffet table.
Sunset Boat Trip to a Local Floating Village
After lunch, it was time for a bit of sightseeing. As we glided our way past the first few towering karsts, I knew we were in for a treat. Boats cruise alongside each other through channels studded with the most dramatic rock formations I have ever seen. Towering above the calm waters, these karsts are one of the most extreme limestone formation landscapes in the world.
As the boat came to a stop, we were directed onto smaller wooden boats that would take us to our first attraction. We visited the Cua Van Fishing Village, which we explored by boat wearing traditional Vietnamese cone hats to protect us from the harsh sun. The Cua Van village is a floating village, and once you see it, you’ll understand why it has been listed as one of the world’s most attractive villages.
With over 175 households with electricity and platforms creating an entire floating sports field, this was one of the most unique villages I have ever seen. The local livelihood is founded on fishing, unsurprisingly. Although the village is a stop on many tourist junk trips, it still offers an authentic view of this charming way of local life.
On our way back to the junk, we stopped at the Sung Sot Grotto. It’s one of the biggest and most beautiful limestone caves in the bay, located on the island of Bo Hon. You need to climb a bunch of stairs to get to the cave, which sits around 25 meters above sea level. Having always been interested in geology, admiring these stalagmites and stalactites was a highlight for me.
A Night onboard a Heritage Line Cruise
When we arrived back at the boat, we showered after a day on the water and spent some time in our gorgeous cabin. Adjourned with local art and featuring an ensuite bathroom and a small balcony, it barely felt like a cabin at all.
We then headed to the central deck to grab a drink and join a late afternoon cooking class. With the help of the boat’s head chef, we prepared spring rolls, dips, and sauces, which would then be served with dinner. After watching the sunset from the rooftop deck, we headed down to enjoy dinner in the dining room.
After dinner, I spent another hour drinking tea on the top deck, stargazing and enjoying the sounds of the other boats nearby. The day ended with the gentle movement of the boat lulling me to sleep in my air-conditioned cabin.
Morning Tai Chi Before Breakfast
The next morning, I rose early to an otherworldly milky scene of the bay. It was almost as if the water blended into the sky. I headed to the top deck to grab a cup of freshly brewed coffee and sat on the deck watching as my fellow cruisers did a Tai Chi class. The entire scene was something out of a movie.
A full hotel-style buffet breakfast was then served in the dining room. Eggs, fruit, rice dishes, pastries – you name it, they had it.
Hiking to the Highest Viewpoint
We then boarded the small tenders and were taken to Titop Island. One of the tallest islands in the bay, we were given the opportunity to climb to the top of the karst to check out the exceptional views of Ha Long Bay from a high point of view. The hike was easy (yet swelteringly hot) and took around thirty minutes of uphill climbing. Walking down took much quicker, but we were slowed down by other tourists making their way to the summit.
To visit this island, you need to pay around 150 to 250 thousand VND entrance fee, which equates to around $6 to $10. We paid this to our local guide from the cruise, but the amount can be paid directly on arrival on the island.
Pro tip: Be smart about sunscreen. Since Ha Long Bay often has a misty cloud cover over the water, it doesn’t feel as if you are as exposed to the sun as you really are. Always wear a sun hat and high SPF sunscreen, and drink plenty of water.
Some Time at the Beach
After a sweaty hike, we were rewarded with a couple of hours on the natural white sandy beach of Titop. Since these karsts rise so dramatically from the water, beaches are far and few between in Ha Long Bay. I spent the morning lapping up the sun and humidity, dipping in the turquoise water every so often to cool off.
Titop Beach was relatively busy, but I believe it was much less crowded than usual since we visited in the morning. There were a couple of bars and shops where you could grab a fresh coconut or cold water. If you have a bit more time, you could snorkel, kayak, or play beach games here.
As we headed back to the boat, the skippers hoisted all the traditional sails of the Jasmine Junk for us to see the boat in all its historic glory. We enjoyed lunch as the junk cruised back through Ha Long Bay into the open waters around Tuan Chau New Marina.
This trip was such a highlight; the only thing I would have changed is that I could have spent another week on the boat.
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